The Danes in Stockholm are that good

Slowly but surely, the slaughterhouse area is becoming a major culinary destination for those thinking of going beyond customs. The Solen restaurant has long enjoyed strong appeal and has for some time been flanked by creative and high-performing neighbors such as Bar Montan and Matateljén.

The area has blatantly taken inspiration from other former meat districts, such as the Meat Packing District in New York and Kødbyen in Copenhagen, but honestly there’s still a long way to go before it can compare to these greats.

It’s desolate and deserted on a cold winter Tuesday, and the snow-covered outdoor seating reinforces the feeling that this is a place that’s far from finished.

If you can’t compare yourself to Kødbyen yet, the connection to Denmark exists in another way. The colors red and white have been in effect in the former premises of Restaurant Afrika since November; on ceiling lights, menus, on the walls – and the Danish flags that decorate the restaurant with the clear name “Dansk Slaktis”. A patriotic formulation that may provide additional impetus after Donald Trump’s imperialist attempt to take over Greenland from the Danish Kingdom.

Above all, it says Danish The menu includes buttered bread and, according to the owners, the huge Danish export “hygge.” But every time we visit KK, we don’t notice so much about this product. The music is blaring from the speakers, the restaurant is half full, the dishes are funny and almost a little correct – but not very sociable.

Dansken is the sister restaurant of Nybroe smørrebrød, located in both Hötorgshallen and Östermalmshallen. There are some regular hot dishes on a separate menu, but there’s no doubt that diners come here for mostly Danish sandwiches washed down with beer and hard liquor.

Two to three sandwiches are recommended for dinner, and it takes some navigation to be sure you’re full, as some of the sandwiches are heartier while others are decidedly more modest.

Hot smoked char (165 SEK) is served on sourdough toast with a baked egg, browned butter hollandaise and roe – which you hardly notice. The char is soaked in the butter sauce, but we can’t detect any browned notes. “It tastes like breakfast” is a statement that sums up this glorified version of the brunch dish Egg Royalee.

Better then is the rimmed beef brisket (SEK 145), cut into thin slices on Danish rye bread, covered with mastic and filling potato cream. The beer-caramelized onion on top is unnecessarily sticky and sweet, but the cucumber breaks up nicely and gives the sandwich a rustic and sturdy whole.

The classic chicken and curry combo (SEK 135) that DN’s has sent out over the years comes from the children’s menu and is spooned into both baguettes and baked potatoes of varying quality. Here we get delicate poultry mixed with the curry tones of mayonnaise, garnished with some crispy bacon. Paired with pickled pearl onions and a carrot stick, it’s childishly delicious in its simplicity.

Fried plaice is also classic (SEK 145) on rye bread with Danish remoulade sauce. The fish is lukewarm and crispy breaded, but rather bland and a bit too thick and coarse. The sauce, which has a subtle taste of curry and doesn’t taste as sticky as mayonnaise, as is often the case with similar portions, provides a certain amount of traction.

The same sauce is also available with the roast beef (SEK 145), which gets an additional kick from pickled tomatoes, spicy horseradish and fried onions. An impeccable portion in every respect, as close to the Danish original as you can get.

There are three sandwiches to choose from for vegetarians. We stick with the one with brie cheese (130 SEK), which is two slices of (refrigerator cold) cheese covered in sweet apple compote and toasted walnuts. It’s competent, but a bit boring and far from memorable.

The dessert menu offers both sour and sweet. A thick sea buckthorn curd (SEK 135) is served, covered with grilled meringue and crispy roasted pistachios. The curd has just the right bitterness to combine with the really sweet meringue. But once the toppings are eaten, it becomes a somewhat monotonous dish to ladle into.

Homemade Chocolate Pie (135 SEK) – a dense and compact chocolate cake – is quite chewy, although the combination of strong chocolate flavor and sour cream is generally pleasant.

There is a limited wine list For those who wish, in Denmark you mainly wash down your sandwiches with beer and schnapps. However, the beer lover who has plenty of beer in Denmark will be disappointed. There are three different beers on tap here, and none of them are Danish. Admittedly, Tuborg is sold in 33 centilitre bottles, but there would probably be room for a much larger selection of beers with Danish labels.

Even the range of the snapshots is unnecessarily one-sided. In addition to Gammeldansk, variants from OP and Aalborg are offered (27 SEK/cl for everyone). However, we give a plus point for the possibility of ordering small snacks, which allows you to vary the limited range.

Despite the fact that there are still few establishments, competition in the slaughterhouse sector is still fierce. But while the other restaurants focus on modern and creative restaurant food, Dansken represents a simpler and less demanding philosophy.

Good thing – and maybe A competitive advantage to attract those who just want something small to eat and drink. And sometimes it works well, but just as often it becomes banal and non-committal. The Dane should also think about working on his hygge a bit to be able to attract guests from his neighbors.

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